Underneath the manifolds above the main block oil gallery at the back of the engine directly below the heather hose tap. Truth is it isn't very accessible ...once you've seen where it is it might be an idea to cut a small suitable hole in the engine enclosure at that position so that a box spanner or socket can be put through to remove and replace the plug. The hole made should be slightly elongated at the 8 o'clock position so that a rod or small oil gallery bottle brush can be pushed through the drain plug hole to get rid of all the scale that builds up at the back of the block water jacket. Give it a good rodding out - I've indicated how far a bush ought to be able to go in so that you're sure that you've done a good job of getting rid of as much scale as possible
Last Edit: Sept 10, 2017 9:26:13 GMT by bondbug750
This is a great help M8....any chance you could also post a pic of where you made your hole in the engine enclosure for getting that prodder inside...I am guessing its towards the bottom of the passenger seat side....?
Sorry I've never actually done that ...only I thought that it would be a sensible idea. Usually I do the cleaning when working on engines once out of the car - for engines in-situ I replace the drain blanking bolt with this type of drain tap which is just about accessible and usable for routine draining of the block
Last Edit: Sept 10, 2017 14:44:54 GMT by bondbug750
Excellent idea M8..I think I may be able to get a flexible cleaning rod in there when I do drain the system.....do you have a place where I could obtain one of those drain plugs....Ebay perhaps....can you post a link....?
Hey, Sorry for not posting for a while, winter layoff. I was inspired by this thread - I've been having overheating problems getting progressively worse and since I changed to a B diff, needed tackling. I'd flushed the rad, then fitted an aux rad from some kind of Kawasaki, but nothing changed. Started fiddling with the ignition timing when I read this thread and realised that I'd never cleaned the engine block. This is a recon 750 fitted about 1985
So, I located the plug and unscrewed it. Very stiff to start, had to use an extension, but then it came out tight all the way except at the last bit. No coolant came out. Tried poking with a drill as mentioned above but it wouldn't go in. Tried a nail and pierced through a wall of some hard substance, and then had a good rootle around as the coolant drained.
I was expecting gunge, but what flushed out was like coarse grit, and a lot of it. Is this normal?
Still better out than in, job well done. Went to screw in the plug, and while it sort of screwed in, it was pretty sloppy in the thread and - horror! - wouldn't tighten up when fully in, went round and round. Lot of mild panic and head scratching, but it looked to me like the thread was a bit dense for a reliant engine, so tried a similar size bolt, different thread, which screwed in perfectly. So whoever "reconditioned" my engine in the 80's seems to have bodged in a plug and used some kind of cement, the thing I had to break through with the nail.
So, aside from the sandy stuff, my question is, is extensive poking in that hole , where the various pokers I used went in about 3-4 inches, just couldn't get any further due to the angles involved. Think that's enough to clear around cylinder 4, and is there anywhere else worth rodding?
yeah that's the stuff ...a lot of sticky granular clay, pale grey or beige. Its mostly aluminium silicates plus lime scale and (I think) the remains of a leak seal product called Barsleaks that Reliant used to chuck into all their engines during final assembly.
There are no other places to rod out (unless you've got to take the head off because the head gaskets gone due to overheating otherwise you really don't want to be messing with that)
So you've done enough and undoubtedly improved circulation at the back of the block ...there are those that say a flush out with coca cola is the thing to use for the flush (but I've never tried that). You'll have to have the heater valve open to get the best circulation at the back of the block. Make the new coolant (anti freeze) up with demonised water to avoid lime scale - it is said that a Calgon tablet is a very good idea as well
Ensure that there is a thermostat fitted because without a thermostat the water takes a short cut and doesn't circulate to the back of the block properly
Thanks 750! I'm responsible for any StopLeak residues from a vain attempt to prolong the life of a previous radiator. Having seen the nature of the 'silt' that came out, I can imagine Calgon might be an answer, although I wouldn't dare run it in the antifreeze, just water and then flush it out. I'll try this if the temperature still won't behave. Although I can't believe this clean-out won't have solved it. There was a coffee-mug full of silt spat out.
I forgot to say, as well as extra radiator I even fitted a motor cycle overflow radiator tank in the passenger foot well and special radiator cap to expand the system. I've really been using my imagination, and failing at every turn! I'll report back on how it works out. Cross your fingers for me!
Aw back to the bleedin drawing board. It still heads towards overheating 10km. That's a bit better than before, but I assume there is still clag in the system, or my fiddling with the ignition timing has annoyed the engine.
I bought a timing light gun last year - waste of money. I performed every contortion possible in a human body with mirror and still couldn't illuminate the timing marks with the Gunson. At the moment I'm gradually advancing the timing to see if that keeps the heat down. Is there a better way?
karl: Bug Club Rally added to shows and events
Dec 21, 2017 20:09:17 GMT
karl: Check out shows events section
Feb 1, 2018 20:46:17 GMT
Stiffy: I can pin it as a separate link if folks want
Feb 24, 2018 11:40:58 GMT
arabu: just received email from dvsa re mot exemptions, it says just tax and mot as usual and state that bug is basically standard. Hope this is helpful
Mar 21, 2018 10:14:38 GMT
diamond54bb: I was the first owner of JUB92L and have picture I wish to upload to gallery with the other 6 photos but how do I do this?
Mar 25, 2018 10:51:39 GMT
re diamond54bb: send pics to email@example.com and he will add them to the gallery
Apr 11, 2018 10:52:22 GMT
re diamond54bb: that should be firstname.lastname@example.org
Apr 11, 2018 10:52:55 GMT
one bolt billy : Anyone know what steering boss fits a 74 bug ? OR anyone got a steering wheel assy they want to sell?? We cant get out so need to make a bit more room or learn how to limbo dance !!!
May 2, 2018 15:19:04 GMT
ian1404:: I used to own OYC 320 L and would love to own a Bug again. Anyone know of any high quality, good condition examples for sale?
May 5, 2018 20:17:30 GMT
cdb15: Calling One Bolt Billy: Mountney boss MB029 and 029C seem to fit 'all' Reliant 3 wheelers, cost around £20. People to speak to are Scarborough Racing Developments, failing that Opie Oils, both have web sites with all contact details.
May 10, 2018 20:58:16 GMT
the ghost of cain: I have an 875 mk2 i need headlights,any ideas,thankyou
Jun 26, 2018 11:12:31 GMT
bondbug750: Mk2 ...oblong - but not the same as Bug - I'm racking my brain to guess what part bin they came out of :-( - but I bet it's Mk1 Ford Escort - or Vauxhall Viva late 60's
Jun 27, 2018 8:08:06 GMT
Purplereign: . . .Are they not the same as Reliant Kitten/Allegro? New subject please: I'm looking for a scrap bodyshell. No mechanicals/trim/chassis needed, preferably one that is too ropey to restore properly as it would be a waste. But I need a canopy glass and ligh
Jul 15, 2018 15:32:02 GMT
martin: Hi there , i have not been on any forums before . my father has a bond bug which has been in his garage since 1989 . the reg is CBF 820H and the chassis no on logbook is 800002 . Neither of these seems to register on here , any help or info would be good
Jul 25, 2018 15:41:52 GMT
bondbug750: CBF819H was chassis no. 1 - the first production Bug ...famous (infamous) for its use in the so called Carnaby Street Lord John advertisement - I guess what you've got is the 2nd production Bug!
Jul 26, 2018 15:17:00 GMT
karl: Martin, join the bug club.
Aug 6, 2018 18:18:40 GMT
karl: For more details pm me or Ron Biggin (Biggles)
Aug 6, 2018 18:19:30 GMT
martin: OK will join club , but cant print form yet ,will do when home next week
Aug 12, 2018 16:21:10 GMT
martin: Hi, as my father cannot get ins he would like to sell his bug. I will put on ebay but if anyone is interested please ring Martin 07590723076 . Good bits... he has rebuilt it and its one of the first . Bad bits ... its painted red and has home made bumpers
Sept 2, 2018 9:22:46 GMT
Little-John: I watched Mike and Eddd. restore a Bond Bug on "Wheeler Dealers." At the Woburn 40th birthday party there were two very professional looking 4 wheel Bond Bugs (one yellow, one green.) Were they factory versions? How were they done? By whom?
Dec 1, 2018 22:10:14 GMT