Underneath the manifolds above the main block oil gallery at the back of the engine directly below the heather hose tap. Truth is it isn't very accessible ...once you've seen where it is it might be an idea to cut a small suitable hole in the engine enclosure at that position so that a box spanner or socket can be put through to remove and replace the plug. The hole made should be slightly elongated at the 8 o'clock position so that a rod or small oil gallery bottle brush can be pushed through the drain plug hole to get rid of all the scale that builds up at the back of the block water jacket. Give it a good rodding out - I've indicated how far a bush ought to be able to go in so that you're sure that you've done a good job of getting rid of as much scale as possible
Last Edit: Sept 10, 2017 9:26:13 GMT by bondbug750
This is a great help M8....any chance you could also post a pic of where you made your hole in the engine enclosure for getting that prodder inside...I am guessing its towards the bottom of the passenger seat side....?
Sorry I've never actually done that ...only I thought that it would be a sensible idea. Usually I do the cleaning when working on engines once out of the car - for engines in-situ I replace the drain blanking bolt with this type of drain tap which is just about accessible and usable for routine draining of the block
Last Edit: Sept 10, 2017 14:44:54 GMT by bondbug750
Excellent idea M8..I think I may be able to get a flexible cleaning rod in there when I do drain the system.....do you have a place where I could obtain one of those drain plugs....Ebay perhaps....can you post a link....?
Hey, Sorry for not posting for a while, winter layoff. I was inspired by this thread - I've been having overheating problems getting progressively worse and since I changed to a B diff, needed tackling. I'd flushed the rad, then fitted an aux rad from some kind of Kawasaki, but nothing changed. Started fiddling with the ignition timing when I read this thread and realised that I'd never cleaned the engine block. This is a recon 750 fitted about 1985
So, I located the plug and unscrewed it. Very stiff to start, had to use an extension, but then it came out tight all the way except at the last bit. No coolant came out. Tried poking with a drill as mentioned above but it wouldn't go in. Tried a nail and pierced through a wall of some hard substance, and then had a good rootle around as the coolant drained.
I was expecting gunge, but what flushed out was like coarse grit, and a lot of it. Is this normal?
Still better out than in, job well done. Went to screw in the plug, and while it sort of screwed in, it was pretty sloppy in the thread and - horror! - wouldn't tighten up when fully in, went round and round. Lot of mild panic and head scratching, but it looked to me like the thread was a bit dense for a reliant engine, so tried a similar size bolt, different thread, which screwed in perfectly. So whoever "reconditioned" my engine in the 80's seems to have bodged in a plug and used some kind of cement, the thing I had to break through with the nail.
So, aside from the sandy stuff, my question is, is extensive poking in that hole , where the various pokers I used went in about 3-4 inches, just couldn't get any further due to the angles involved. Think that's enough to clear around cylinder 4, and is there anywhere else worth rodding?
yeah that's the stuff ...a lot of sticky granular clay, pale grey or beige. Its mostly aluminium silicates plus lime scale and (I think) the remains of a leak seal product called Barsleaks that Reliant used to chuck into all their engines during final assembly.
There are no other places to rod out (unless you've got to take the head off because the head gaskets gone due to overheating otherwise you really don't want to be messing with that)
So you've done enough and undoubtedly improved circulation at the back of the block ...there are those that say a flush out with coca cola is the thing to use for the flush (but I've never tried that). You'll have to have the heater valve open to get the best circulation at the back of the block. Make the new coolant (anti freeze) up with demonised water to avoid lime scale - it is said that a Calgon tablet is a very good idea as well
Ensure that there is a thermostat fitted because without a thermostat the water takes a short cut and doesn't circulate to the back of the block properly
Thanks 750! I'm responsible for any StopLeak residues from a vain attempt to prolong the life of a previous radiator. Having seen the nature of the 'silt' that came out, I can imagine Calgon might be an answer, although I wouldn't dare run it in the antifreeze, just water and then flush it out. I'll try this if the temperature still won't behave. Although I can't believe this clean-out won't have solved it. There was a coffee-mug full of silt spat out.
I forgot to say, as well as extra radiator I even fitted a motor cycle overflow radiator tank in the passenger foot well and special radiator cap to expand the system. I've really been using my imagination, and failing at every turn! I'll report back on how it works out. Cross your fingers for me!
Aw back to the bleedin drawing board. It still heads towards overheating 10km. That's a bit better than before, but I assume there is still clag in the system, or my fiddling with the ignition timing has annoyed the engine.
I bought a timing light gun last year - waste of money. I performed every contortion possible in a human body with mirror and still couldn't illuminate the timing marks with the Gunson. At the moment I'm gradually advancing the timing to see if that keeps the heat down. Is there a better way?
mybug: Anyone know the whereabouts of PTO 365M? It was mine back in the early 80s and some pix have surfaced here (apparently from ebay around 5 years ago) so is it still around?
Jan 14, 2019 13:58:31 GMT
karl: Andrea, just seen your post. if you're still looking try putting it in the for sale wants thread.
Jan 14, 2019 19:58:09 GMT
mybug: Searched and spooled through every image/video/old ad I can find on the internet, I'm thinking that PTO 365M is not around any more. May be resting in a shed, but given the small and tight-knit Bug community, I'd have thought that someone would know it.
Jan 16, 2019 14:19:51 GMT
Biggles: I think David and Jim Williams are doing the Hinges ....
Jan 27, 2019 9:41:59 GMT
Dave Powell: David did me some great hinges.
Feb 11, 2019 21:52:09 GMT
mikebentley: how does this shout box work?
Feb 16, 2019 13:40:51 GMT
nigel1962: Hi mark ,did you get my reply
Feb 18, 2019 20:44:05 GMT
crabo: Does anyone have the registration plate numbers or the chassis numbers for the Rothmans Bugs (six of). I friend of mine has just purchased a white Bug (700E) in need of restoration, reg URC 42L, chassis no BR62313, eng no 9816.
Mar 27, 2019 19:41:42 GMT
jefferdp: All, does anyone know the size of the headlights on the bug, Some say there 7/6" but that seems a little large to me. Also where can you get replacments now?
Apr 4, 2019 16:54:48 GMT
fmb4: My Bug has nothing but a hole where the canopy latch should be. Any help in finding one would be greatly appreciated!
Apr 9, 2019 14:55:30 GMT
Biggles: fmb4 One on ebay now
Apr 13, 2019 9:16:03 GMT
heartnut: Quick question: If I fit a Lucas 15/16/18 alternator, is it true that it will heed fibreglass work to fit it as the body is bigger than the original generator?
Apr 26, 2019 19:14:47 GMT
rolydog2001: I have fitted a Dynamator to get around this, looks original and gives the same output.
Apr 27, 2019 19:25:09 GMT
heartnut: Thanks for that - good tip!
May 2, 2019 20:21:08 GMT
tpg: can you please help? my son is nearing the end of a 4 year restoration of his mini cooper car and we are trying to locate 2 of the above wheels to make up a set. Would you know any of your colleagues who may know anybody who would sell us 2 alloys. Any inf
May 12, 2019 13:59:52 GMT
tpg: Sorry the wheels are Dunlop D1 LP922 X 10inch. thanks
May 12, 2019 14:01:25 GMT
tpg: Hi dose anybody have 2 DUNLOP D1 LP922 ALLOYS for sale? URGENTLY required
May 25, 2019 9:53:39 GMT
fmb4: I am in desperate need of a latching assembly for my canopy. I am restoring, and have only a hole where it would have been. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Maybe some one could send me detailed photos of same so I could perhaps have one made
Jun 10, 2019 21:52:08 GMT
rolydog2001: I'm about to fit mine soon, if you can drop me a PM via the forum with your email (or whats app better) I can send you some pics.
Jun 15, 2019 19:06:17 GMT