Cranked over my bug today after a good clean out of the engine and new oil and it’s smokes terribly, it’s very choking!! Not sure if this is oil or fuel or both. Should I be looking at diving into the engine more deeply or is this because the engine hasn’t ran for so long this is normal? I’ve read lots of forums and people are saying valve stem seals, is this a straight forward task for a moderate engineer like myself or am I diving into the unknown and may total what bit if an engine I have left. When I turn it over from cold it’s not to bad to start with then as the engine gets warmer boom smokey smokey and it’s chokey chokey, any ideas and help would be much appreciated guys.
Hi, My Bug was in a museum for 20+ yrs. I did a total strip clean and re build on mine as don't want any probs when body goes back on. Mines a long way from being finished so bolted my engine to an upside down pallet I turn the crank from time to time and start it now and again anything mechanical left stood can be a problem. If no knocks and horrible noises then I would almost certainly consider changing the head gasket at least then you will be able to see the condition of the bores and delve into the condition of the valves, guides and seals. Took me two days of gentle tapping and rocking with a wooden mallet to get mine off, better to do now mate while its easy to access.
vkh 307h. When you take an engine head off the kit of parts usually includes the valve stem seals. If you did not fit them you may be doing a second head off, on some engines it is possible to use a cranked tool to hold the valve in position when you take the collets and springs off, but the Bond Bug is very compact and tight for space. regards Bill
Hi!! Thanks for the reply, yes I did the head gasket valves etc they were coated in black residue which has all been cleaned. I think I will tackle the valve stem seals...
Reading your posts I am left wondering - and please don't be insulted by this - did you actually remove the valves completely from the head, or did you just clean up the areas you could get to?
If you didn't replace the seals then either you removed the valves but refitted them with the original seals still in place, or you didn't remove them at all. Either way I would suggest you need to remove the valves from the head completely, so that not only can you change the stem seals, you can also check the valve seats are in good condition (re-grind them if not, it's an easy job if they're not badly pitted) and you can check for wear in the valve guides - poor lubrication in the past can lead to excessive wear in the guide bores, meaning the valve stems flop about in the guides to the point where even new seals aren't big enough to stop oil blow-by, resulting in oily exhaust. As the engine gets hotter, so the valve guide bore increases, and any gap increases, allowing more oil to get into the combustion chamber. Replacing valve guides isn't a huge deal, though you may want to place the work with an engineering firm if you're wary of doing it yourself. Personally I've never needed to do it on any engine, but doubtless others on here can advise how realistic it is as a DIY operation.
I am really impressed by Fifers home made tool, though I have to question the effort involved - it seems to me just as easy to lift the head as to go to all that effort of the special tool, especially as there is always the risk of something tiny being dropped into the cylinder even if the cable stops a valve dropping.
For the cost of another head gasket, and certainly while the engine is out and accessible, it will be a sound investment to life the head again.
Hi cdb15 yes I didn’t remove the valves just cleaned up what I could see, looks like head off again.
Look on the bright side - the job will be *much* easier second time around, cos you know what to expect, which tool to use that *just* fits perfectly etc, plus you know you've narrowed down the search for your smoke problem to the valves.
As you take the head off, check each cylinder carefully - it could be you have general wear all over, in which case all cylinders should look about the same, or you may have one specific failure, such as a crack in a guide or a broken stem seal on just one valve - if it's a clearly localised problem like that, then you can choose whether to fix just that one problem, or completely strip the head and renew everything. There are arguments both ways - if it ain't broke, don't fix it. OTOH if it's all apart anyway, why not go the whole hog? Depends how you are for time and cash.
There is a strong argument that says if one of the four/eight components has failed, the others can't be far behind. The strength of this argument depends on how old your engine is, and how much you know about its history. If the whole thing is unknown, then personally I would go for the 'replace the lot' view, then at least you know you have a good baseline for the future.
If it's any consolation, I am facing exactly the same dilemma with my entire braking system. Ho hum, the joys of old classics
Hi, Reading the post and replies...Take the head off and do a full deck and valve grind, fitting the new seals on rebuild. Fixing one cylinder is in my opinion a waste of time...you'll end up doing the rest anyway. Any gasket set comes with a FULL set of seals and gaskets, why leave some on the shelf for tomorrow, DO the Job Right Bill
When you took the head off did you clean the carbon from the top of the pistons ? If so it could be the cause of your problem . The carbon that builds up around the edge of the piston acts as a seal and if you scrape it off the engine will smoke more . The centre of the piston should only be cleaned leaving a ridge of carbon around the edge . Worn valve stem seals cause smoke on start up and smoke when shutting off the throttle as the vacuum sucks oil down the guides .
Hiya Tod, yes your spot on I did clean all the pistons as they were heavily carbon soaked. Does this mean I could just leave it and a new seal will eventually be created, I’m a great believer in not messing if not needed as this engine is so old opening up again I’m worried will just open up more problems.
karl: Bug Club Rally added to shows and events
Dec 21, 2017 20:09:17 GMT
karl: Check out shows events section
Feb 1, 2018 20:46:17 GMT
Stiffy: I can pin it as a separate link if folks want
Feb 24, 2018 11:40:58 GMT
arabu: just received email from dvsa re mot exemptions, it says just tax and mot as usual and state that bug is basically standard. Hope this is helpful
Mar 21, 2018 10:14:38 GMT
diamond54bb: I was the first owner of JUB92L and have picture I wish to upload to gallery with the other 6 photos but how do I do this?
Mar 25, 2018 10:51:39 GMT
re diamond54bb: send pics to firstname.lastname@example.org and he will add them to the gallery
Apr 11, 2018 10:52:22 GMT
re diamond54bb: that should be email@example.com
Apr 11, 2018 10:52:55 GMT
one bolt billy : Anyone know what steering boss fits a 74 bug ? OR anyone got a steering wheel assy they want to sell?? We cant get out so need to make a bit more room or learn how to limbo dance !!!
May 2, 2018 15:19:04 GMT
ian1404:: I used to own OYC 320 L and would love to own a Bug again. Anyone know of any high quality, good condition examples for sale?
May 5, 2018 20:17:30 GMT
cdb15: Calling One Bolt Billy: Mountney boss MB029 and 029C seem to fit 'all' Reliant 3 wheelers, cost around £20. People to speak to are Scarborough Racing Developments, failing that Opie Oils, both have web sites with all contact details.
May 10, 2018 20:58:16 GMT
the ghost of cain: I have an 875 mk2 i need headlights,any ideas,thankyou
Jun 26, 2018 11:12:31 GMT
bondbug750: Mk2 ...oblong - but not the same as Bug - I'm racking my brain to guess what part bin they came out of :-( - but I bet it's Mk1 Ford Escort - or Vauxhall Viva late 60's
Jun 27, 2018 8:08:06 GMT
Purplereign: . . .Are they not the same as Reliant Kitten/Allegro? New subject please: I'm looking for a scrap bodyshell. No mechanicals/trim/chassis needed, preferably one that is too ropey to restore properly as it would be a waste. But I need a canopy glass and ligh
Jul 15, 2018 15:32:02 GMT
martin: Hi there , i have not been on any forums before . my father has a bond bug which has been in his garage since 1989 . the reg is CBF 820H and the chassis no on logbook is 800002 . Neither of these seems to register on here , any help or info would be good
Jul 25, 2018 15:41:52 GMT
bondbug750: CBF819H was chassis no. 1 - the first production Bug ...famous (infamous) for its use in the so called Carnaby Street Lord John advertisement - I guess what you've got is the 2nd production Bug!
Jul 26, 2018 15:17:00 GMT
karl: Martin, join the bug club.
Aug 6, 2018 18:18:40 GMT
karl: For more details pm me or Ron Biggin (Biggles)
Aug 6, 2018 18:19:30 GMT
martin: OK will join club , but cant print form yet ,will do when home next week
Aug 12, 2018 16:21:10 GMT
martin: Hi, as my father cannot get ins he would like to sell his bug. I will put on ebay but if anyone is interested please ring Martin 07590723076 . Good bits... he has rebuilt it and its one of the first . Bad bits ... its painted red and has home made bumpers
Sept 2, 2018 9:22:46 GMT
Little-John: I watched Mike and Eddd. restore a Bond Bug on "Wheeler Dealers." At the Woburn 40th birthday party there were two very professional looking 4 wheel Bond Bugs (one yellow, one green.) Were they factory versions? How were they done? By whom?
Dec 1, 2018 22:10:14 GMT