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Post by stem on Dec 11, 2019 9:38:04 GMT
Hi all , i put a replacement carb on my bug & got it running by putting a bit of fuel directly in to the carb, however i cant get it to start the normal way even though the tank is nearly full of fresh petrol ! do you think this is a fuel pump problem or could it be something else ?? Many thanks Steve
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Post by ayrbugger on Dec 11, 2019 9:44:55 GMT
I've the same problem with a Reliant so watching answers with interest.
I may have a blocked/nipped fuel line as the car is sitting up on blocks, once that is checked out I have a fuel pump ready to go on if necessary.
Too cold and damp to go outside to the workshop to lie on the concrete floor albeit's dry
Bill
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Post by cdb15 on Dec 11, 2019 16:53:15 GMT
I've the same problem with a Reliant so watching answers with interest. I may have a blocked/nipped fuel line as the car is sitting up on blocks, once that is checked out I have a fuel pump ready to go on if necessary. Too cold and damp to go outside to the workshop to lie on the concrete floor albeit's dry Bill Generally not a good idea to support a car on its fuel line ... 
but as the car has been standing a while (in both your cases?) it's possible the fuel in the line has dried out and you have an air-lock. One option is to remove the fuel line downstream of the pump, then keep turning the engine until fuel is pumped through. The other is to remove the fuel line upstream of the pump, remove the filler cap, and pressurise the fuel tank until fuel flows through.
Either way you need to be sure you can catch the fuel that comes though the pipe, and how you pressurise the fuel tank is up to you 
Other possible causes: air-hole in the filler cap is blocked (engine runs fine without cap in place, but stops if cap is re-fitted); air-lock in carburettor. Rather unlikely, but you never know; sediment blocking fuel flow - could be in the carburettor, or in the pick-up inside the fuel tank. Clean carb. Rock car to swirl fuel in the tank to dislodge any sediment.
If the fuel pump was working OK before the car was laid up, then it's not likely to be the fault UNLESS it contains some sort of diaphragm that may have dried out and cracked or split on standing. I don't know if this might apply to your particular pumps. In any diagnosis like this, the key question is: what has been changed/repaired/not-broke-so-fixed-until-it-was since the car was running fine?
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Post by Geordie Mike on Dec 12, 2019 21:50:06 GMT
I had this issue and used an oil Syphon(big metal syringe with a plastic tube in the end) to draw fuel through the pump, no problems after that. I believe it was a stuck diaphragm but it may have been an airlock in the fuel line.
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Post by stem on Jan 5, 2020 11:42:29 GMT
Hi all, thanks for the replys, just a quick update on the fuel problem, well a previous owner had fed the fuel pipe into the boot with an realy old fuel filter attatched to it, so i removed it and sryinged petrol down the fuel line towards the pump, put a new filter on and connected the pipes back up and hey presto it started !! Ive been back to it several times and it keeps starting and running fine so hopefully thats that problem sorted.
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Post by cdb15 on Jan 5, 2020 20:49:16 GMT
Ive been back to it several times and it keeps starting and running fine Well there you go, that's the thing about these cars... you find a fault and fix it, and then what? The car works, so you stop it and start it and it works again... How dull is that ? Takes all the fun out of life. I mean... reliability - pshaw - what pleasure is there in *that* ??!!!
Still, look on the bright side - there's sure to be some other equally perverse problem you can't possibly see how to fix coming along very soon - most likely just when you've decided the car is really so reliable you can depend on it for that all-important journey ...
Happy New (irresolvable problem filled) Year everyone !
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Post by Nobla on Jan 5, 2020 20:57:15 GMT
Hi all, thanks for the replys, just a quick update on the fuel problem, well a previous owner had fed the fuel pipe into the boot with an realy old fuel filter attatched to it, so i removed it and sryinged petrol down the fuel line towards the pump, put a new filter on and connected the pipes back up and hey presto it started !! Ive been back to it several times and it keeps starting and running fine so hopefully thats that problem sorted. |
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Post by Nobla on Jan 5, 2020 21:05:30 GMT
Hello Steve (Stem)
Would you like to met up some time as I am not far from you. It would be nice to have a chat and catch up if that would be possible.
You can email me at davidalbon@hotmail.co.uk for more details, as I don't know how to pm people.
Look forward for your reply.
Dave (Nobla)
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Post by stem on Jan 6, 2020 9:03:19 GMT
Hi Nobla,
Message sent
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Post by stevenarcher on Apr 14, 2020 10:43:22 GMT
take mechanical pump off,bin it.blank off the hole in engine case..i fit a facet electric pump starts every time,hot or cold
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Post by ady on Apr 15, 2020 9:48:49 GMT
I would second the sugestion to fit an electric Facet pump. Really helps with the hot start issue. There is an efficency gain too, by keeping the fuel cooler.
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Post by stem on Apr 29, 2020 6:57:48 GMT
Thanks for the electric fuel pump tip but im reluctant to swap it whilst the original one is still working, only problem i have at the moment is when i start the engine it revs really high ! can you adjust the tick over whilst the engine is cold or do you have to let it warm up ??
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Post by vannin on Apr 29, 2020 8:54:10 GMT
hi Stem, are you on full choke ? if you are shove it in a bit.
if not then try backing the idle screw off a bit before you start it
then when it has warmed up you can adjust it accurately
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Post by stem on Apr 30, 2020 15:11:44 GMT
Hi vannin thanks for your reply, i do start it on full choke but then back it off straight away but it revs full blast ! I will try doing what you say tomorrow & see what happens.
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Post by vannin on Apr 30, 2020 16:28:32 GMT
i should have asked what carburettor you are running Stem ?
if you look at the throttle spindle you should be able to see
the idle screw to back it off a bit then fire it up again.
unless the choke is stuck ?
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Post by stem on May 1, 2020 7:05:35 GMT
Its a zenith
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Post by vannin on May 1, 2020 9:07:17 GMT
the standard zenith has an idle adjuster screw on the side Stem,
make sure that it is set properly
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Post by stem on May 8, 2020 15:35:06 GMT
the standard zenith has an idle adjuster screw on the side Stem, make sure that it is set properly Is that the idle screw going into the carb ?  |
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Post by vannin on May 8, 2020 17:21:54 GMT
no thats the mixture screw, the idle screw is the one on the left just in shot.
have you got another zenith to try on the engine ? or even get hold of a
weber 32 ich which is an easy swap and a tried and tested Bug modification
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Post by Nobla on May 8, 2020 20:43:14 GMT
Hi Stem,
I have a spare Weber 32ich if you would like to try it, the only modification you have to change is the choke cable round to the opposite side.
I changed from an old tired Zenith to a weber and it transformed the car and was a lot more responsive.
Also weber parts are a lot easier to get hold of.
The mk 1 Fiesta' s and I think series 2 Land Rover's also used them as well.
If I can help let me know, I hope to get over to you when this lockdown business is over.
Stay Safe.
Dave.
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Post by stem on May 9, 2020 6:29:55 GMT
I'll tinker with it a bit more, i have 4 zenith carbs Vannin but the one now on the bug looked the best of the bunch, it looks like i may have to go down the weber path sooner or later, many thanks for your offer dave it would be great to try yours.
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Post by vannin on May 9, 2020 9:22:26 GMT
i'd go for a weber but if you have four zeniths then for the sake of half an hour i'd bung one on.
the only down side to a weber is they are a bit thirstier than a zenith and a lot more than an S.U
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