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Post by jefferdp on Jun 5, 2021 14:10:12 GMT
Hi,
To all you knowledgeable people out there, can someone tell me if you can remove the rad from underneath?
I can't see how it comes out from above because of the heater matrix.
Also is the rad the same size as the one used in the classic mini.
Thanks Dean.
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Bug RAD
Jun 5, 2021 15:18:57 GMT
via mobile
Post by vannin on Jun 5, 2021 15:18:57 GMT
Hi Dean,
I've only ever taken them out from the top and yes the same as a mini radiator although I've fitted a two core super cool rad from mini sport which is a bit deeper.
If you've not already done it cut slots in the brackets that hold the rad on so you can start the bolts off and slide it in place also check your water pump when the rad is out as it's a pig to change with the rad fitted
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Post by jefferdp on Jun 5, 2021 17:06:29 GMT
Vannin, your a Saint,
Brilliant, thats exactly what I wanted to do, fit a 2 core one as I still have problems keeping the temp down.
I thought it may just come out from below. I can only see 2 blots holding the rad in place at the bottom, are there any at the top which I can't see?
Also was it easy to remove from the top, I take it I have to remove the heater box to be able to get it out.
Many thanks Dean.
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Post by rogeru7 on Jun 5, 2021 18:32:28 GMT
The rad will have to be removed from above so out comes the Heater, one thing to note on the mini rad it will be pushed forward as the 2 bolt bushes are set near the front of the rad and not at the back as per the bug rad which means the bottom hose get mighty close to the dynamo pulley, the original bug rads had the bottom outlet exiting at 90 deg where’s the mini,s is 45 deg
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Post by cdb15 on Jun 5, 2021 19:22:29 GMT
Consider using waterless coolant when you rebuild it all? |
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Post by rogeru7 on Jun 5, 2021 19:53:32 GMT
The rad will have to be removed from above so out comes the Heater, one thing to note on the mini rad it will be pushed forward as the 2 bolt bushes are set near the front of the rad and not at the back as per the bug rad which means the bottom hose get mighty close to the dynamo pulley, the original bug rads had the bottom outlet exiting at 90 deg where’s the mini,s is 45 deg I mixed the wording up, the mini bushes are at the back of the rad and the bug ones are at the front of the rad, sorry for the error |
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Post by Stiffy on Jun 6, 2021 17:33:35 GMT
Dave Hemsley does a hose for the mini rad. i got one of him last week. Get the competition rad as it has more cores.
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Post by jefferdp on Jul 12, 2021 11:55:08 GMT
Thank you guys for all your help and advice.
The advice about putting slots in the mounting brackets was spot on. So much easier to fit after I had done that.
Well, the Bug is now sorted. After replacing or repairing almost every moving part on the car I have to say she now spot on.
There is a hill between Bath and Chippenham called "Tog Hill" every time I hit this hill in the bug the temp went through the roof, even after cleaning the block out. Now however I can purring up it at 50mph and the temp gauge does not move over the 3rd mark.
Its taken me 2 years of graft, scraping my hands red raw, laying on my back on the drive for hours, bending backwards and every other direction under the hood to get to things and using every four letter word under the sun at it. But now I think it may just have been worth it.
I at last have a car which looks good (well to me anyway), runs well and can take me anywhere I want without any issues.
The only trouble I have now is that I'm a little bored with nothing to do. May have to start on the bikes again.
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Bug RAD
Jul 12, 2021 13:36:54 GMT
via mobile
Post by vannin on Jul 12, 2021 13:36:54 GMT
Hi Dean,
Firstly well done for seeing it through and getting your Bug sorted but be careful not to speak too soon as these cars have a habit of biting you on the backside.
Happy motoring
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Post by ballache on Jul 12, 2021 17:01:09 GMT
we're all looking forward to seeing it at the rally next month!
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Post by jefferdp on Mar 14, 2023 14:32:45 GMT
Well, I have to say Vannin was right.
Just when I thought I was going to have a year for enjoyable driving the bug throws another wobbly.
I now seem to be losing water and think after reading another chat on this site that I may need to have the head skimmed ?
The water is coming out of the pressure cap on the Rad. So I think the cooling system is being pressurised.
OH, well more back ache, scraped hands and lots and lots a 4 letter words come from my drive over the next few weeks.
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Post by vannin on Mar 14, 2023 18:57:13 GMT
thats a bit of a blow Dean isn't it, at least it's not the middle of summer when you want to be out and about in it.
don't forget if you take the cylinder head off to check that the block is flat as well as the head.
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Post by cdb15 on Mar 18, 2023 16:05:59 GMT
thats a bit of a blow Dean isn't it, at least it's not the middle of summer when you want to be out and about in it. don't forget if you take the cylinder head off to check that the block is flat as well as the head. Whilst skimming the head is always a good idea if it's off, "to check the block is flat as well as the head" is not so simple. And what is one to do if it is *not* flat?
I wonder, has anyone ever tried using Hylomar Blue on the block, to seal against a head gasket - or even to dispense with the head gasket altogether? Hylomar do actually list "cylinder heads" as amongst its applications, though whether this means to aid sealing of a conventional head gasket or instead of it I have not explored. Either way, I suggest Hylomar Blue would be a wise precaution if there is any suspicion that the block may not be as flat as one would hope.
If dispensing with the head gasket, remember to re-adjust all your tappets as they will now be tighter by about 1-2mm.
Whilst on the subject, does anyone know a way to get the Hylomar Blue squeezed out of its tube without giving oneself a hernia? It must be one of the most incredibly viscous materials known short of being completely solid!
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Post by Stiffy on Mar 19, 2023 11:06:07 GMT
I wouldn't recomend leaving the gasket out Chris. Its there for a reason. Even if you have machined flat both head and block it will take up any movement etc. :-)
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Post by vannin on Mar 19, 2023 11:46:02 GMT
"whilst skimming the head is always a good idea if it's off" who on earth told you that Chris ?
do NOT skim a cylinder head just because it's off !
"to check the block is flat as well as the head" "is not so simple"
it's an awful lot simpler than not checking it and the gasket failing again
and having to go through the whole process again but the second time around let me think oh yeah i'll check the block this time
N.B all the cylinder head gaskets i've ever used, the manufacturers stress not to use any proprietary sealant with the gasket
is it any wonder that so many Bugs are bodged and make do repairs executed and the result ? go on any Bug rally and i will
guarantee at least a couple of breakdowns
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Post by Stiffy on Mar 20, 2023 9:10:12 GMT
When replacing the gasket check the water holes line up as more often then not they dont these days. You can file out the ones that dont - making sure you dont get swarf in the holes.
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Post by cdb15 on Mar 25, 2023 16:34:59 GMT
I wouldn't recomend leaving the gasket out Chris. Its there for a reason. Even if you have machined flat both head and block it will take up any movement etc. :-) There seems to be a bit of misinterpretation here of my earlier post. I never suggested not using *any* sealant. I merely asked if anyone had tried using only a particular 'liquid' sealant, Hylomar Blue.
Sealants come in many forms, from clay-impregnated rags used by the Romans to high tech liquid sealants used by NASA. A gasket is only a solid-state sealant. There's nothing magic about it. All a 'gasket' does is provide a sealant in a handy-to-use solid state. Just because a solid sealant works in a particular application doesn't mean some alternative material might not be equally adequate - or even better. Sealant technology has moved on a tad since the 1930s when the items specified for the Reliant engines were chosen from the then-available options - which in themselves probably dated from even earlier.
People seem quite happy to fit modern tyres which out-perform the originals; engine oils, engine coolants, brake fluids, brake shoes, lamp 'bulbs', ditto. Even, as in this thread, radiators. Why not sealants too?
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Post by cdb15 on Mar 25, 2023 16:50:56 GMT
"whilst skimming the head is always a good idea if it's off" who on earth told you that Chris ? do NOT skim a cylinder head just because it's off ! Given that the usual reason (or does anyone really do a de-coke every 3000 miles these days?) for removing the head is a rebuild or to rectify some fault, and given that a head is usually only removed once in about every 30,000 miles in an engine with a life of what, 100,000 miles? then removing a few thou' three times is well within the capacity of the available metal, and given that alloy heads can distort even by merely loosening the head bolts before the engine is fully cooled, then I believe it is always a good idea to check the head for flatness every time it's removed, and have it skimmed if necessary.
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