Hi, I had a Strutsdirect and it failed, it was not getting much use due to rebuild being stalled with my house move. Changed to a SGS and it is working fine and no problems to date...now I need to get sparks then I'm on the road from 1st Jan 2017...clear the way I'm coming thro Guid New Year to one and all regards to all ayrbugger
Just fitted this SGS strut ...it works a treat: fits straight on and holds the canopy at any desired open position from just open enough to reach in to the parcel shelf from the outside to fully open to get the engine cover off
Last Edit: Dec 29, 2016 16:03:25 GMT by bondbug750
as I say I have a strutsdirect one on my bug but lately I'm sure it's lost a bit of pressure unless it's just the cold weather but those sgs struts sound very good in holding the canopy in most positions
The SGS recommended gas strut for the Bond Bug is okay providing the canopy and side-screens are not too heavy, you may also find that some gas struts won't hold the canopy up during the cold weather. SGS will re-gas any of their gas struts if they fail within the warranty period,so don't paint over the details shown on the body of the strut,another handy tip if doing a restoration is not to get the gas strut until you are ready to use the Bug as struts stored for several years before using could fail quite rapidly.
Slight thread hijack, forgive me, but it will keep all gas strut stuff together. The Webster I have just acquired does not have any canopy strut fitted, nor is there any obvious sign of where it ought to fit. So, I need some way to keep the canopy up. However, I understand that the Webster body had thicker GRP than the Reliant bodies and so would be somewhat heavier. Now, the first owner of 'my' bug fitted some DIY doors which are wood framed and consequently rather heavy - I have removed them so I know this for certain. Despite that, the canopy without any doors or screens is still pretty heavy - at least to my untutored experience. What I want to know is, is this usual? Should the canopy normally just lift with light finger pressure, or does it normally take a huge effort? Opening my canopy is almost 2-man job, and lifting from one side the weight seems so much that the whole panel looks to be in danger of twisting to the point of cracking.
I have seen a photo on Google Images of a Bug with TWO struts, one either side of the engine. Is there a diagram anywhere showing how/where the standard strut fits the Bond body? This would at least give me a starting point to decide how to proceed. And am I rigt in thinking that the Webster item will be braodly the same in fitting, spec etc as the standard? Thanks, all insights much appreciated.
I would never claim to be an expert but yes I have fitted a powered system. It can be seen working on YouTube, search for Bond Bug canopy and it should pop up. Mine is all based on parts for powered folding roofs. I think the rams are VW and the pump Sabb but could be wrong, they were random bits off eBay. So the system consists of an electrically powered hydraulic pump under the seat, sitting on the chassis rail. Two push/pull rams connected to it, one each side just infront of where the front edge of the sidescreen would be. An electric window switch turns the pump on in either up or down direction. The hydraulic system naturally balances between the two rams, so the lift is always even. I use a manual valve to shut the fluid circuit off in the raised position, but could replace this with an electronically operated one. The canopy is quite heavy without any assistance to lift it, and as you say it is possible that the Webster one is heavier than the original. Using the electric/hydraulic that I have done the actual weight is not that important, it just affects how hard the pump works and the speed the canopy moves. With the original gas strut, the weigh is critical, although adjustable struts are available, where you let gas out to reduce the force they have.
Meanwhile, many thanks for the detailed comments, and for the video - it looks very cool, and given the weight of my canopy it may well be the way for me to go. If only I could try different options without chopping up the body work each time
My canopy has been repaired many times I think because to it just so heavy.
I contacted a company call SGS Engineering LTD, I explained what i wanted and they made me a strut, which was dispatched the next day. In fact they knew what type I needed as they had the spec on there books already.
When i got it, it fitted perfectly but would not hold the canopy up if there was a bit of wind. So they took it back and filled it with more gas (up to 690n) , for a small fee.
Now works fine and fits perfectly and only cost about £25 including postage.
I would recommend they to anyone with a Bug.
Last Edit: Aug 21, 2017 11:39:20 GMT by jefferdp: Costs needed to be added.
In order to get some idea of the capacity of gas strut I would need for the Webster canopy, I have measured the "weight" on the rear edge of the canopy by lowering it gently onto some bathroom scales resting on the rear edge of the body. The result is about 28kg. This was complete with doors fitted, so a 'worst case'. I wonder if anyone with a standard Bug would help me by doing the same test with their car, and reporting the weight here? This will give me some idea as to how much greater capacity I will need in the strut(s). It may turn out that the standard strut will be OK, but at least this test would give some idea of the relative weight of the two.
I'm toying with the idea of a standard strut in the (normal) central position (if I can work around the carb cover bulge), aided by two supplementary struts, one on each side above the occupants heads. This would not only give extra lifting capacity, but also prevent twisting and flexing of the canopy as it is moved.
Many thanks to anyone who is prepared to weigh their own canopy for me.
I have a turned sleeve which fits between the strut spring and the very large washer when the canopy is in the open position, it takes the strain off the strut and ensures the canopy does not close unexpectedly if you are working on the car
stan: I will be selling my Bug, I had it for about 4-5 years and getting a wee bit to old to crawl underneath.
May 10, 2020 15:41:48 GMT
Eartthing: Hello anybody, still no reply about cable earthing explanation. I would be happy with at least I don't know as I'm seeing tumble weeds on this forum.
May 16, 2020 15:49:33 GMT
Eartthing: please help !
May 16, 2020 15:49:55 GMT
karl: If you don't get a reply, post on the main forum
May 16, 2020 19:22:21 GMT
Stiffy: Your better of posting a question on the forum. One earth goes to the chassis from the battery negative. Then anther goes fro the wiring loom onto a bolt ontop of the gearbox cover. :-)
May 17, 2020 19:30:59 GMT
stan: Karl,Stiffy, thanks very much, I'm new to this site and I though that t I was on forum.
May 18, 2020 5:55:16 GMT
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stan: did you get details .
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ady: For the petrol tank try looking up triggergas on ebay, he might be able to make you one. You can fit radial tyres, most people do. There is plenty of choice of tyre for it as they are the same size as a Mini. You can still get crossplys if you want
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