|
Post by ayrbugger on Feb 8, 2017 20:29:56 GMT
Hi, I am currently using round lights that give me adjustment...but would like to convert back to rectangular. What headlight shells am I looking for nothing under BB on the evilbay. Thanks Bill
|
|
|
Post by Stiffy on Feb 8, 2017 22:13:38 GMT
there the same Austin allegro and mark 1 ford capri's I think. 
|
|
|
Post by bondbug750 on Feb 9, 2017 8:31:06 GMT
Same as the later Hillman Hunters I think
|
|
|
Post by ady on Feb 9, 2017 12:03:32 GMT
I bought some Hillman hunter ones when I was looking for them and they were wrong, Could have been wrong age of Hilman Hunter though. You can always put things back up on ebay if they are wrong though.
|
|
|
Post by bondbug750 on Feb 9, 2017 14:51:47 GMT
errrm ...now that's a thought - certainly late Hillman Hunter rear lights are same as Bug - but the headlights? - now I'm wondering if it was Hillman Avenger not Hillman Hunter ...you know how it is in scrapyards back in the day with all the half crushed cars towering 5 or 6 high - I could have been confused.
Bet you the're the same a Bond 875 Mk2 though ...good luck trying to find one of them though :-) :-)
|
|
|
Post by karl on Feb 9, 2017 16:32:02 GMT
I know of two 875 with tarpaulin covered over them 😜
|
|
|
Post by bondbug750 on Feb 10, 2017 8:29:19 GMT
Touche! OK I'll raise you: Clan Crusader
|
|
|
Post by ayrbugger on Feb 19, 2017 17:42:41 GMT
Hi, I checked the evilly again and still nothing so I dug out the shells that I have, and what I need is the metal work between the plastic shell and the Light unit. Checked the light units and found that one was an old Bug one and it works needs a pilot light bulb, the other one is a later sealed beam and it works on all filaments. Just need the metal work now. Bill
|
|
|
Post by bondbug750 on Feb 20, 2017 8:35:05 GMT
Think that I've got the metal work from a scrapped Bug: carrier frame that goes onto the plastic bucket then 2 frames that hold the headlamp. Problem is that I've lost all the gubbins and adjusters that hold these lot together and I suspect it'll be a bit of a pain to replace or bodge these items satisfactorily
....oh yeah and we forgot to motion some Triumph Torledo (probably rarer than Clan Crusaders) :-)
|
|
|
Post by ayrbugger on Feb 20, 2017 15:46:45 GMT
Hi, Been having another look at my headlamp shells today as its wet outside so no road trials, the rain will help to wash away the salt from last week. The bit with the worst rot is in fact a retaining plate that is used to secure the plastic shell to the bodywork. It will be consigned to the bin in bits as it is cut away. A new method of fixing will be created to suit the shell and the old holes, then the shells will be secure.
The next section is the rear holding frame and apart from being rusty should be salvageable, spent an hour oiling and praying to get the adjustment screws moving and now have ALL working so the lamp unit will adjust as should. The outer section is free and only with surface rust so has had one coat of Hammerite and due another one tomorrow.
So after a reasonable amount of plodding it looks that I have salvaged the headlights, now need to get on with painting and designing new fixings(easy)
Bill
|
|
|
Post by ayrbugger on Feb 22, 2017 21:06:06 GMT
Hi, Progress report, have had to cut gently with my trusty angle grinder the inner headlight frame to allow my new light units to sit in as required. Not too onerous then repaint, second coat tomorrow, then able to fit to Bug. Security of plastic shells will be by S/S screws with washers through the f/glass then assemble in progressive steps...do not envisage any problems Bill
|
|
|
Post by bondbug750 on Feb 23, 2017 9:08:54 GMT
Does anyone know how these headlights can be adjusted at home? ...or do you need to visit a garage with one of those things that the MOT testers use?
|
|
|
Post by ayrbugger on Feb 23, 2017 20:28:05 GMT
Hi, Thought I had sent a response but must have pressed the wrong button. The light unit is clamped between two pressed metal frames and secured by set screws. This in turn is mounted in the plastic shell that is secured to the fibre glass by screws into plastic expansion plugs. The light is adjusted by the use of two screws that adjust left/ right...and up /down. The principal requirement of the MOT test is to check that the lights dip to the left and down as a pair. The loading of the vehicle means that the extent if dip varies.
Set the car looking at a blank wall, i.e. the car not the operator, and mark off the centre line and offset the lights. By switching ON and adjusting the screws to bring the centre into line, the marks that you extended onto the wall. Do each separately and blank off one light at a time(throw an old jacket over the light NOT being adjusted). Once done check both together and note that they both dip to the left and down. Bill
|
|