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Post by ayrbugger on Feb 22, 2017 14:56:57 GMT
I am melting the heel on the points...the blue plastic part that rubs on the cam-spindle.
i have a box of melted ones , they only last a short time before they melt causing the points to close and ignition failure.
What am I doing wrong, my thoughts were that the problem lay with the condenser and that has been changed...still the same .
On the coil...which terminal should be connected to the points...plus OR negative
thanks in anticipation
Bill
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Post by sd1 on Feb 22, 2017 18:29:28 GMT
Hi,
Its Neg - to dizzy
see bug wiring diagram on this site.
have you changed your coil ? some systems run a ballast resistor some do not but if you have a coil that needs a ballast resistor that's more than likely the problem.
again look at wiring diagram this will help.
all the best
steve.
sd1
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Post by ayrbugger on Feb 22, 2017 21:00:08 GMT
sd1,
Thanks,I checked the coil and it was connected correctly, also checked the resistance and the coil was down on reading so have changed it over, then got cold around the nether regions so tomorrow will check out points and timing and retry. Forth set of points now.
regards Bill
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Post by sd1 on Feb 22, 2017 21:52:18 GMT
 No probs best of luck sd1
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Post by Stiffy on Feb 22, 2017 21:57:04 GMT
I did hear that the quality of points, condensers Etc. has gone down hill since the availability of British made Lucas components stopped. A lot of stuff is now made in China and it doesn't last as long.
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Post by bondbug750 on Feb 23, 2017 9:12:33 GMT
Very interesting because I've certainly had this melted plastic happening on contact breaker points ...never found out what caused it - do hope its not the coil
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Post by redbug on Feb 23, 2017 17:15:14 GMT
I think that is why most people go for electronic switching, mine has been in four years and I have never had to look at it.
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Post by sd1 on Feb 23, 2017 17:50:40 GMT
Can not beat the old points system I say can always fix on the side of the road easy and cheap simple.
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Post by vannin on Feb 23, 2017 18:13:21 GMT
as Stiffy says, it's the quality of the ignition components that's the problem these days,
it might (points, condenser, rotor) come in a green Lucas box but is made under licence and not by Lucas.
lumenition magnetronic kit for the Lucas dizzy is about £80 and worth every penny, just keep your old
points etc tucked away in the Bug somewhere for piece of mind but you won't need them, ever.
don't forget to buy a genuine Lucas (old stock) dizzy cap aswell as the aftermarket ones are dire
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Post by ayrbugger on Feb 23, 2017 20:17:46 GMT
Hi,
I thought I published a response...but hi ho must have pressed the wrong button
If the latest set of points goes wrong then I'll be joining the electronic group.
I have an electronic system in my Citroen special..not much Citroen now.. and its working ok
Bill
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Post by vannin on Feb 24, 2017 16:31:18 GMT
what make are the "latest" set of points you have fitted Bill ?
unfortunately it not if but when they will fail I'm afraid,
although if you use your bug infrequently you should get some time from them
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Post by ayrbugger on Feb 27, 2017 16:49:04 GMT
Tannin,
The last set lasted about 1/2 hour in the garage testing the ignition etc and then it went ti*s up. They were the same type as previous...no makers name and they have a blue plastic/nylon heel that runs against the spindle cam. The contact point is fine so not a grease problem...the melting occurs where the plastic is bonded to the point arm...same place each time. There is a degree of arcing which could be a source of heat, but not too bad.
The condenser is new, I have anoth one so will fit it tomorrow and then try again.
Fingers crossed.
What is the forum experience of electronic points versus electronic ignition(the full monty)...#35 v#80
Bill
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Post by ady on Feb 27, 2017 19:51:08 GMT
Sounds to me like you have bought duf badly made points. Quality is variable. Try getting some from somewhere different.
I run points in mine, and have had the odd badly made component. But in general have found them reliable.
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Post by bondbug750 on Feb 28, 2017 8:59:43 GMT
Could a "ballasted" coil running without a ballast in circuit cause this problem
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Post by vannin on Mar 4, 2017 11:29:35 GMT
there is an article in this months "practical classics" on funnily enough, fitting electronic ignition
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Post by sd1 on Mar 4, 2017 16:17:14 GMT
Could a "ballasted" coil running without a ballast in circuit cause this problem Yes as I said earlier sd1 |
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Post by ayrbugger on Mar 4, 2017 20:56:11 GMT
I have solved the problem...will know for sure tomorrow after a run round the block.
I fitted a set of electronic points(Land Rover conversion) and again had my hair pulling exercise, no bloody spark, buggered about for about an hour...went thro "Fifers Blogs" and tried again, nuffin. Then took out the Dizzy and had a good look at it said a few naughty words, flattened the clamp bracket, refitted and the engine started albeit off tune. Adjusted the timing and it now starts and runs off choke after about 30secs.
Need to gets squint vision as its impossible to get a good line of sight on the timing marks using the timing light. How do others see the marks???
Bill
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Post by Stiffy on Mar 4, 2017 21:08:40 GMT
Some tipexx on the timeing mark works.
Some Reliant engines have 2 timing marks an upper and a lower one. I get the marks lined up while engine is not running then turn the ignition on. But still not started. Then with the dizzy cap off turn the dizzy until you hear the points spark. Make sure points are set at the right gap
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Post by chrispbug on Mar 5, 2017 14:42:47 GMT
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Post by ayrbugger on Mar 8, 2017 15:38:30 GMT
Latest update,
Bug is running fine but the timing is not spot on but is usable. Need to get assistance to set it as I will need to be under the car and someone at the top...I think, just cannot get a good sight on the timing marks on the casing as I still need to develop a squint!!!
This was the first time driving a Bug so I was a bit apprehensive but good result, must remember not to drink tea before setting off as needed to stop for a tinkle! Also need to phone Council and get the potholes filled in.
There was a rattle at the top of the canopy but now cured with 1/2 inch pipe lagging, its a good fit around the tubes. Have had to reset the steering as it was 90 deg out when straight ahead.
Otherwise all was good so heres hoping the weather holds for some time.
Planning a trip up the Western Hebrides this May with my pals RR in tow. So should be a good fun trip, was there last year and got superb weather. If there are any three wheelers wanting to come contact me planning on the first two weeks in May, dates to be confirmed, will take approx 10 days around trip.
Bill
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Post by bondbug750 on Mar 9, 2017 8:35:17 GMT
If the Bug goes that is sufficient ...there is no need to look at the timing marks anymore as they were only there as an initial setting. Adjust the dizzy round a nudge and road test again. Each engine is slightly different and the dizzy itself has its own characteristics (Lucas dizzy are not a precision instruments) and truth is few Bugs have their original dizzy these days. Its said that the optimal timing can be anything between 8 to 16 degrees. If the engine seems to race away but there is power or it pinks: too far advanced; if the engine won't pick up to far retarded. Its trial and error now
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Post by Biggles on Mar 9, 2017 8:59:20 GMT
If the Bug goes that is sufficient ...there is no need to look at the timing marks anymore as they were only there as an initial setting. Adjust the dizzy round a nudge and road test again. Each engine is slightly different and the dizzy itself has its own characteristics (Lucas dizzy are not a precision instruments) and truth is few Bugs have their original dizzy these days. Its said that the optimal timing can be anything between 8 to 16 degrees. If the engine seems to race away but there is power or it pinks: too far advanced; if the engine won't pick up to far retarded. Its trial and error now That's what i do with my turn the Dizzy a smidgen till i am happy ... |
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No probs best of luck
