Underneath the manifolds above the main block oil gallery at the back of the engine directly below the heather hose tap. Truth is it isn't very accessible ...once you've seen where it is it might be an idea to cut a small suitable hole in the engine enclosure at that position so that a box spanner or socket can be put through to remove and replace the plug. The hole made should be slightly elongated at the 8 o'clock position so that a rod or small oil gallery bottle brush can be pushed through the drain plug hole to get rid of all the scale that builds up at the back of the block water jacket. Give it a good rodding out - I've indicated how far a bush ought to be able to go in so that you're sure that you've done a good job of getting rid of as much scale as possible
Last Edit: Sept 10, 2017 9:26:13 GMT by bondbug750
This is a great help M8....any chance you could also post a pic of where you made your hole in the engine enclosure for getting that prodder inside...I am guessing its towards the bottom of the passenger seat side....?
Sorry I've never actually done that ...only I thought that it would be a sensible idea. Usually I do the cleaning when working on engines once out of the car - for engines in-situ I replace the drain blanking bolt with this type of drain tap which is just about accessible and usable for routine draining of the block
Last Edit: Sept 10, 2017 14:44:54 GMT by bondbug750
Excellent idea M8..I think I may be able to get a flexible cleaning rod in there when I do drain the system.....do you have a place where I could obtain one of those drain plugs....Ebay perhaps....can you post a link....?
Hey, Sorry for not posting for a while, winter layoff. I was inspired by this thread - I've been having overheating problems getting progressively worse and since I changed to a B diff, needed tackling. I'd flushed the rad, then fitted an aux rad from some kind of Kawasaki, but nothing changed. Started fiddling with the ignition timing when I read this thread and realised that I'd never cleaned the engine block. This is a recon 750 fitted about 1985
So, I located the plug and unscrewed it. Very stiff to start, had to use an extension, but then it came out tight all the way except at the last bit. No coolant came out. Tried poking with a drill as mentioned above but it wouldn't go in. Tried a nail and pierced through a wall of some hard substance, and then had a good rootle around as the coolant drained.
I was expecting gunge, but what flushed out was like coarse grit, and a lot of it. Is this normal?
Still better out than in, job well done. Went to screw in the plug, and while it sort of screwed in, it was pretty sloppy in the thread and - horror! - wouldn't tighten up when fully in, went round and round. Lot of mild panic and head scratching, but it looked to me like the thread was a bit dense for a reliant engine, so tried a similar size bolt, different thread, which screwed in perfectly. So whoever "reconditioned" my engine in the 80's seems to have bodged in a plug and used some kind of cement, the thing I had to break through with the nail.
So, aside from the sandy stuff, my question is, is extensive poking in that hole , where the various pokers I used went in about 3-4 inches, just couldn't get any further due to the angles involved. Think that's enough to clear around cylinder 4, and is there anywhere else worth rodding?
yeah that's the stuff ...a lot of sticky granular clay, pale grey or beige. Its mostly aluminium silicates plus lime scale and (I think) the remains of a leak seal product called Barsleaks that Reliant used to chuck into all their engines during final assembly.
There are no other places to rod out (unless you've got to take the head off because the head gaskets gone due to overheating otherwise you really don't want to be messing with that)
So you've done enough and undoubtedly improved circulation at the back of the block ...there are those that say a flush out with coca cola is the thing to use for the flush (but I've never tried that). You'll have to have the heater valve open to get the best circulation at the back of the block. Make the new coolant (anti freeze) up with demonised water to avoid lime scale - it is said that a Calgon tablet is a very good idea as well
Ensure that there is a thermostat fitted because without a thermostat the water takes a short cut and doesn't circulate to the back of the block properly
Thanks 750! I'm responsible for any StopLeak residues from a vain attempt to prolong the life of a previous radiator. Having seen the nature of the 'silt' that came out, I can imagine Calgon might be an answer, although I wouldn't dare run it in the antifreeze, just water and then flush it out. I'll try this if the temperature still won't behave. Although I can't believe this clean-out won't have solved it. There was a coffee-mug full of silt spat out.
I forgot to say, as well as extra radiator I even fitted a motor cycle overflow radiator tank in the passenger foot well and special radiator cap to expand the system. I've really been using my imagination, and failing at every turn! I'll report back on how it works out. Cross your fingers for me!
Aw back to the bleedin drawing board. It still heads towards overheating 10km. That's a bit better than before, but I assume there is still clag in the system, or my fiddling with the ignition timing has annoyed the engine.
I bought a timing light gun last year - waste of money. I performed every contortion possible in a human body with mirror and still couldn't illuminate the timing marks with the Gunson. At the moment I'm gradually advancing the timing to see if that keeps the heat down. Is there a better way?
tmallen: Just registered as I am looking to purchase a BB, I have one in particular that I am awaiting more information on. In the meantime, anyone got one for sale or know anyone who has, please send me details. Thanks
Apr 22, 2020 10:39:07 GMT
Kev: How easy is it to remove body from chassic?
Apr 23, 2020 18:37:51 GMT
ayrbugger: Kev, Open up forum and go to bond bug problems...there is a section re removal of body. You'll need three strong blokes or as I did a hoist and a support frame, and a strong beam in your garage to hang it all off.
Apr 26, 2020 9:57:10 GMT
bugged: Hi does anyone know what the original top seat belt hooks looked like or have a photo want to make or source one as close to original as I can. thanks guys
Apr 28, 2020 14:53:00 GMT
mothball: Where can I get a N/S rear brake back plate (3 holes)
May 1, 2020 8:32:54 GMT
V8 Bug: I owned bought a bug in 1972 and had 3 years of fun with it. Around that time I saw an article about a number of bugs that had been fitted with V8 engines for an Arab prince. I think this was done in Wales. Anyone know anything about these?
May 4, 2020 8:59:22 GMT
Rg: Brakes the same has mini
May 9, 2020 20:52:21 GMT
Old boy: Hi, can anyone explain the 2 earthing systems please. I,m ok with bolt to engine method but the C earthing Is a puzzle !
May 10, 2020 15:34:26 GMT
stan: I will be selling my Bug, I had it for about 4-5 years and getting a wee bit to old to crawl underneath.
May 10, 2020 15:41:48 GMT
Eartthing: Hello anybody, still no reply about cable earthing explanation. I would be happy with at least I don't know as I'm seeing tumble weeds on this forum.
May 16, 2020 15:49:33 GMT
Eartthing: please help !
May 16, 2020 15:49:55 GMT
karl: If you don't get a reply, post on the main forum
May 16, 2020 19:22:21 GMT
Stiffy: Your better of posting a question on the forum. One earth goes to the chassis from the battery negative. Then anther goes fro the wiring loom onto a bolt ontop of the gearbox cover. :-)
May 17, 2020 19:30:59 GMT
stan: Karl,Stiffy, thanks very much, I'm new to this site and I though that t I was on forum.
May 18, 2020 5:55:16 GMT
stan: I'm not sure if using this system right can any one advise pleas. Dope bugger
May 20, 2020 18:45:50 GMT
stan: did you get details .
May 23, 2020 9:44:42 GMT
alpine6969: Looking for bushes for rear trailing arms pushed the rubber bush out but looks lo
May 25, 2020 19:43:50 GMT
alpine6969: Looking for bushes for rear trailing arms pushed the rubber bushes out but looks like a metal sleeve in there, does this need to come out ? Not sure what the dimensions are looks like 24 mm with sleeve in and maybe 26 ish without
May 25, 2020 19:48:04 GMT