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Post by vkh307h on Sept 24, 2018 18:41:52 GMT
Help anyone any tips how to remove rear hubs off the rear axle, seized solid,used cans of the wd40 stuff and nearly broke me pullers still not budging!!! Stubborn buggers!! Need to remove as I’m changing the oil seals.
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Post by rolydog2001 on Sept 24, 2018 19:02:42 GMT
Having recently done this and like you struggled..... One side gave way with a puller but the other side I to use heat to expand the hub and then 'tap' it with a hammer whilst under pressure from the puller. This seemed to have the desired effect!
Chris
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ritey
New Bugger
Posts: 9 
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Post by ritey on Sept 24, 2018 20:39:10 GMT
I had the same problem ended up making a puller myself and it worked a treat, cut some 3/8 steel plate 6" diameter drilled 4 holes to pick up the wheel studs then drilled a 3/4 clearance hole in the centre and then welded a 3/4 nut over the hole then used the 3/4 bolt to jack the hub off, took some doing but off it came.Your'e welcome to borrow it if you fancy a trip to S Wales.Hope this helps.
Jim.
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Post by ady on Sept 24, 2018 21:08:21 GMT
I used a slide hammer, attached with a chain around the hub.
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Post by cdb15 on Sept 25, 2018 9:34:32 GMT
Not done this recently, but did on my Kitten back in the 1980s. I also used a slide hammer. At the time these cost a fortune so as I recall I hired one from the local tool shop. In all the years since I've never needed one again, so probably renting the tool was the best option. A hammer is better than a puller in principle because it gives a very high but evenly distributed shock load to the seized joint, whether to crack the stiction or the corrosion. Tapping all round with a hammer is OK but of course the load is not evenly applied so there is the risk of cracking the metal or bending it. A puller applies the load slowly, and as many will testify the battle is between the force needed to free the joint and the force needed to strip the threads of the puller. One compromise is to tighten the puller to as hard as you dare before anything breaks, then give the centre of it a good thump with a very heavy hammer (club, sledge etc). This combination gives a safe, fairly evenly applied (depending on how evenly spaced are the legs of the puller) shock load to the seized joint, but again it won't be anything like as high or as evenly distributed as you'd get with a slide hammer.
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Post by Stiffy on Sept 25, 2018 18:13:26 GMT
The first time i did mine it was stuck like shit to a blanket. We used a puller but left the nut still in place then heated it with a gas welding torch. When it did come of it was like a rocket going off. I assemble everything with copper ease now.  |
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Post by vkh307h on Sept 25, 2018 18:42:52 GMT
Lol!! Success guys bought home a monster 3 legged puller and applied tension then heated up the hub, finally tapped with a lump hammer and BOOM!!! Off they come, little buggers lol... thanks guys
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Post by Stiffy on Sept 25, 2018 21:04:48 GMT
Well done.. it will be easier next time |
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Post by bondbug750 on Sept 29, 2018 7:58:57 GMT
I recall on the Wheeler Dealers Bug our Ed just pulled it off almost by hand! ...I thought at the time: yeah right of course its that easy - and I've got a broken puller to prove it
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Post by mikebentley on May 20, 2019 6:31:32 GMT
Wheeler Dealers is not all that it seems
Did you notice the cracks in the paintwork on the nose and after "just painting the hood" the paint work was brill on the nose in the final filming before sale.
And when they did the MK2 escort rally car they just fitted a LSD but at the end it had a brace of Webbers and big exhaust manifold that were not there at the beginning.
But it is TV.
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Post by heartnut on Jun 15, 2019 14:30:03 GMT
To change the seals it's much easier to leave the hub alone and just unbolt the back plate and pull the half shaft out.
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ole
Junior Bugger
Posts: 23
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Post by ole on Jun 21, 2019 18:23:46 GMT
Hi, I had the same "fun" today. I tried my largest puller, but no move!   Is it only the self-lock nut which hold the hub? Or is there any hidden bolt or something? Has anyone a diagram of the axle? I do not understand how I can pull the half shaft out without disassembling the hub!? |
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Post by rolydog2001 on Jun 21, 2019 19:22:06 GMT
Sorry have no advice other than the above... I kept pressure on the hub whilst applying heat around the outside. Remember to keep the nut on though in case it comes flying off!
Chris
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ole
Junior Bugger
Posts: 23
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Post by ole on Jun 21, 2019 21:40:31 GMT
Sorry have no advice other than the above... I kept pressure on the hub whilst applying heat around the outside. Remember to keep the nut on though in case it comes flying off! Chris Thanks! I wasn't sure if there is any secret bolt! So raw violence and heat is the solution... I will give another try with more heat. Do you know what size/ thread the self lock nut is? I'm not good in inch thread... I burned that plastic ring in the nut. |
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Post by rolydog2001 on Jun 22, 2019 19:31:48 GMT
Sorry no, I'm a metric person also!! Dave Hemsley usually knows when I have to ask him. Chris
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Post by vkh307h on Jun 23, 2019 18:33:44 GMT
Lots of heat why the puller is wound up tight, then watch the baby go!!!! then replace with new nylock nuts,
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Post by mikebentley on Jul 30, 2019 9:10:57 GMT
As heart nut said
No need to remove the flange unless replacing the wheel bearing or back plate
BUT IF YOU HAVE GOT IT OFF BEST REPLACE THE WHEEL BEARINGS ASWELL
When I stripped mine the wheel bearing were the open type so must have had to be re-grease from time to time as the oil seal is between the bearing and the oil
I fitted repacked ones with covers on
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