Help anyone any tips how to remove rear hubs off the rear axle, seized solid,used cans of the wd40 stuff and nearly broke me pullers still not budging!!! Stubborn buggers!! Need to remove as I’m changing the oil seals.
Having recently done this and like you struggled..... One side gave way with a puller but the other side I to use heat to expand the hub and then 'tap' it with a hammer whilst under pressure from the puller. This seemed to have the desired effect! Chris
I had the same problem ended up making a puller myself and it worked a treat, cut some 3/8 steel plate 6" diameter drilled 4 holes to pick up the wheel studs then drilled a 3/4 clearance hole in the centre and then welded a 3/4 nut over the hole then used the 3/4 bolt to jack the hub off, took some doing but off it came.Your'e welcome to borrow it if you fancy a trip to S Wales.Hope this helps. Jim.
Not done this recently, but did on my Kitten back in the 1980s. I also used a slide hammer. At the time these cost a fortune so as I recall I hired one from the local tool shop. In all the years since I've never needed one again, so probably renting the tool was the best option. A hammer is better than a puller in principle because it gives a very high but evenly distributed shock load to the seized joint, whether to crack the stiction or the corrosion. Tapping all round with a hammer is OK but of course the load is not evenly applied so there is the risk of cracking the metal or bending it. A puller applies the load slowly, and as many will testify the battle is between the force needed to free the joint and the force needed to strip the threads of the puller. One compromise is to tighten the puller to as hard as you dare before anything breaks, then give the centre of it a good thump with a very heavy hammer (club, sledge etc). This combination gives a safe, fairly evenly applied (depending on how evenly spaced are the legs of the puller) shock load to the seized joint, but again it won't be anything like as high or as evenly distributed as you'd get with a slide hammer.
The first time i did mine it was stuck like shit to a blanket. We used a puller but left the nut still in place then heated it with a gas welding torch. When it did come of it was like a rocket going off. I assemble everything with copper ease now.
Wheeler Dealers is not all that it seems Did you notice the cracks in the paintwork on the nose and after "just painting the hood" the paint work was brill on the nose in the final filming before sale. And when they did the MK2 escort rally car they just fitted a LSD but at the end it had a brace of Webbers and big exhaust manifold that were not there at the beginning.
I had the same "fun" today. I tried my largest puller, but no move!
Is it only the self-lock nut which hold the hub? Or is there any hidden bolt or something? Has anyone a diagram of the axle? I do not understand how I can pull the half shaft out without disassembling the hub!?
Sorry have no advice other than the above... I kept pressure on the hub whilst applying heat around the outside. Remember to keep the nut on though in case it comes flying off! Chris
Thanks! I wasn't sure if there is any secret bolt! So raw violence and heat is the solution... I will give another try with more heat. Do you know what size/ thread the self lock nut is? I'm not good in inch thread... I burned that plastic ring in the nut.
stan: I will be selling my Bug, I had it for about 4-5 years and getting a wee bit to old to crawl underneath.
May 10, 2020 15:41:48 GMT
Eartthing: Hello anybody, still no reply about cable earthing explanation. I would be happy with at least I don't know as I'm seeing tumble weeds on this forum.
May 16, 2020 15:49:33 GMT
Eartthing: please help !
May 16, 2020 15:49:55 GMT
karl: If you don't get a reply, post on the main forum
May 16, 2020 19:22:21 GMT
Stiffy: Your better of posting a question on the forum. One earth goes to the chassis from the battery negative. Then anther goes fro the wiring loom onto a bolt ontop of the gearbox cover. :-)
May 17, 2020 19:30:59 GMT
stan: Karl,Stiffy, thanks very much, I'm new to this site and I though that t I was on forum.
May 18, 2020 5:55:16 GMT
stan: I'm not sure if using this system right can any one advise pleas. Dope bugger
May 20, 2020 18:45:50 GMT
stan: did you get details .
May 23, 2020 9:44:42 GMT
alpine6969: Looking for bushes for rear trailing arms pushed the rubber bush out but looks lo
May 25, 2020 19:43:50 GMT
alpine6969: Looking for bushes for rear trailing arms pushed the rubber bushes out but looks like a metal sleeve in there, does this need to come out ? Not sure what the dimensions are looks like 24 mm with sleeve in and maybe 26 ish without
May 25, 2020 19:48:04 GMT
jonnymonno: Thanks Vannin. The second one was just what i was looking for. Watch this space. I can build uo my Bug which I’ve owned since 78’ now
Jun 2, 2020 5:52:00 GMT
burlmeister: Hi, first time oaths forum, so I may be posting this in the wrong place. I have owned my bu for 32 years and it's been garaged for the last 20. Now trying to resurrect it. Two queries, does anyone produce a rtepl
Jun 27, 2020 15:07:37 GMT
burlmeister: Sorry, tocontine, I',
Jun 27, 2020 15:08:07 GMT
burlmeister: m looking for a replacement petrol tank. Does anyone produce them? Secondly, I need to replace the tyres. There is a sign in the car and in the handbook, only cross ply tyres to be fitted. No idea why this should be. Are cross ply tyres still available?
Jun 27, 2020 15:10:30 GMT
ady: For the petrol tank try looking up triggergas on ebay, he might be able to make you one. You can fit radial tyres, most people do. There is plenty of choice of tyre for it as they are the same size as a Mini. You can still get crossplys if you want
Jun 29, 2020 15:39:00 GMT
barracuda: Anybody out there got an original bug steering wheel for sale, any condition, even one needing restoration, thanks people
Jun 30, 2020 18:48:24 GMT